Really wish I hadn't lost the pictures I took of the processes before getting to this point. First, I sandblasted the doors to bare metal inside and out, then, using a pressure wand siphoning paint from a can I sprayed the entire insides of the doors with Zero Rust, then hand sanded for this, the surfacing primer coat

This was my first attempt at automotive painting. On the advice of Cool Cruiser's website info, I chose single stage acrylic enamel, since it was the original paint used on these rigs. I was to find out later on that I really should have been better prepared for the curing of this paint. There are problems down the road...

Still, though, with Ron's help and advice, I must say I was kind of proud of the quality I got the first time out. I did a lot of practicing before I shot the doors, and I still did a lot of stripping and re- painting later on when I got runs. Eventually, I got the hang of it, and developed techniques for paint ing that reduced the possibilities of mistakes. I always did the sharp edges first, let them harden up for a couple of minutes, then did the large flat surfaces. Later on I would learn that it's better to paint things like that flat rather than hanging them, but that's not always possible, overspray you know.. you can't really paint one side, let it dry and flip it. First of all, the paint will get marked by the support because it's not cured yet, secondly, you'll get overspray on the first side you painted and let dry. Ideally, I would have painted the insides of the doors first, and then had some type of device that went down inside the doors and expanded into them to hold them in the air on a stand that was able to rotate, that way I could spray the doors flat, spin to the other side and spray the other side flat, then let them dry. Hindsight is always 20 20